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Saturday, January 30, 2010
LATEST BROADSPEED NEWS
Factory Order - Buy a New Car from a Car Dealer
Choosing a new is a pretty exciting event, but it's sometimes more complex and difficult than it should be - to actually buy it. The time and effort needed to negotiate the lowest possible new car price really can make what should be quick and enjoyable phone call into a journey into the unknown! Broadspeed is your one stop shop to find the lowest new car price, the highest trade in value and cheapest car finance. The first step is always to decide whether you have the time to wait for a factory order. Car manufacturers have changed strategy from build then sell them to sell then build them. This means your choice of model, colour and optioanl equiment is very restricted compared to a year or two ago. A new car factory order is brand new, factory fresh, built to your exact personla specification - and the latest of everything. If you can wait 8-12 weeks (models vary on lead time), the factory order usually gets the exact car at the best price (because the dealer doesn't have to finance stock - you pay as soon as it arrives).
Ex-Stock - New Car Deals - Discount Car Prices
If you need a new car more quickly, we also have a car finder service; we can offer you discount on brand new cars, ex-demonstrators and nearly new showroom cars. These days, new cars are in short supply so bargains often sell the same day! Be ready to reserve it - or you may well lose it. And bear in mind that a "built car" may mean a colour or equipment compromise - whereas a factory order is your exact specifiaction. Complete as many free online enquiries as you like. Then once you finalise the colour and specification, tell us you're ready for a dealer quote - call us or complete the pre-order process, online. We'll quote you a dealer price there and then - and if you want to go ahead with the purchase, we'll introduce a uk dealer to buy from - the whole order process usually takes 1 working day.
Volume Discount - Cheap New Cars and Finance
Buying power is what it's all about! The more buying power we have, the more leverage we have with new car dealers - and that means you buy at a low discount price - but taking the minimum time and without the hassle facttor. Buying just one new car (no matter how good a negotiator you may be) is just one single sale. However, place an enquiry on www.broadspeed.com and you will benefit from our volume-buying rates whilst only buying a single new car. Like almost all businesses, new car dealerships have volume sales targets to maximise profitability. Broadspeed makes its business to know the aggressive new car dealers and to negotiate what amounts to PLC coroportae discounts for new cars. Private car buyers, small businesses, governemnt departments, assciations, trades unions can all source brand new and nearly new cars and commercials at dealer trade price, or less. Using our service allows you to compare car specifications and discounts without the usual time and hassle involved in buying your next new car.
Choosing a new is a pretty exciting event, but it's sometimes more complex and difficult than it should be - to actually buy it. The time and effort needed to negotiate the lowest possible new car price really can make what should be quick and enjoyable phone call into a journey into the unknown! Broadspeed is your one stop shop to find the lowest new car price, the highest trade in value and cheapest car finance. The first step is always to decide whether you have the time to wait for a factory order. Car manufacturers have changed strategy from build then sell them to sell then build them. This means your choice of model, colour and optioanl equiment is very restricted compared to a year or two ago. A new car factory order is brand new, factory fresh, built to your exact personla specification - and the latest of everything. If you can wait 8-12 weeks (models vary on lead time), the factory order usually gets the exact car at the best price (because the dealer doesn't have to finance stock - you pay as soon as it arrives).
Ex-Stock - New Car Deals - Discount Car Prices
If you need a new car more quickly, we also have a car finder service; we can offer you discount on brand new cars, ex-demonstrators and nearly new showroom cars. These days, new cars are in short supply so bargains often sell the same day! Be ready to reserve it - or you may well lose it. And bear in mind that a "built car" may mean a colour or equipment compromise - whereas a factory order is your exact specifiaction. Complete as many free online enquiries as you like. Then once you finalise the colour and specification, tell us you're ready for a dealer quote - call us or complete the pre-order process, online. We'll quote you a dealer price there and then - and if you want to go ahead with the purchase, we'll introduce a uk dealer to buy from - the whole order process usually takes 1 working day.
Volume Discount - Cheap New Cars and Finance
Buying power is what it's all about! The more buying power we have, the more leverage we have with new car dealers - and that means you buy at a low discount price - but taking the minimum time and without the hassle facttor. Buying just one new car (no matter how good a negotiator you may be) is just one single sale. However, place an enquiry on www.broadspeed.com and you will benefit from our volume-buying rates whilst only buying a single new car. Like almost all businesses, new car dealerships have volume sales targets to maximise profitability. Broadspeed makes its business to know the aggressive new car dealers and to negotiate what amounts to PLC coroportae discounts for new cars. Private car buyers, small businesses, governemnt departments, assciations, trades unions can all source brand new and nearly new cars and commercials at dealer trade price, or less. Using our service allows you to compare car specifications and discounts without the usual time and hassle involved in buying your next new car.
CarsDirect is the best place to buy new cars and used cars online
has been rated the #1 site for buying new cars online by Forbes, Time, PC Magazine, and PC World, among others.
We offer low, no-haggle prices and have a huge selection of new and used cars. To find the guaranteed CarsDirect price for any new vehicle, begin by selecting the make and model in the drop-down menus above.
If you choose to buy a new car online through CarsDirect, a Vehicle Specialist will contact you quickly and help you through the entire car buying process.
If you prefer to buy your next new car from a dealer, we will match your needs with a member of our certified dealer network near you. Your VIP dealer representative will work with you to find your vehicle and negotiate a low price.
You can also search for used cars at CarsDirect. Need to sell your car? List your used car on CarsDirect.com, where it will be available to millions of car shoppers every month.
Thousands of happy customers buy cars through us every month. Who knew it was so easy to buy new cars online?
We offer low, no-haggle prices and have a huge selection of new and used cars. To find the guaranteed CarsDirect price for any new vehicle, begin by selecting the make and model in the drop-down menus above.
If you choose to buy a new car online through CarsDirect, a Vehicle Specialist will contact you quickly and help you through the entire car buying process.
If you prefer to buy your next new car from a dealer, we will match your needs with a member of our certified dealer network near you. Your VIP dealer representative will work with you to find your vehicle and negotiate a low price.
You can also search for used cars at CarsDirect. Need to sell your car? List your used car on CarsDirect.com, where it will be available to millions of car shoppers every month.
Thousands of happy customers buy cars through us every month. Who knew it was so easy to buy new cars online?
How to Negotiate a Price and Buy a New Cars
1.
Step 1
Decide how you intend to use the car: for daily commuting, recreation, weekends and evenings out, carrying things, towing a trailer, carrying more than one passenger or driving in the city, suburbs or country. Consider factors that are important to you, such as fuel efficiency, reliability and safety features.
2.
Step 2
Check into the resale value and repair history of past models in this car line, such as by consulting Consumer Reports magazine or its website (see Resources).
3.
Step 3
Come up with a realistic budget, based on what you can afford (consider the monthly payment and cost of upkeep). If you're considering a trade-in, check the Kelley Blue Book value of your current vehicle. The Blue Book is a catalog of new and used car values, available at libraries, banks and online (see Resources). Factor your car's trade-in value into your total budget.
4.
Step 4
Locate a town or an area near your home with several car dealerships; check Sunday newspaper advertisements and the yellow pages. Choose one or more dealerships to visit and set out early, preferably on a weekday. Remember to bring your driver's license so you can test drive.
5.
Step 5
Find a car that interests you and check the stickers on the window. The first (and sometimes only) one is the factory sticker, which lists the MSRP (Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price), and the second is the dealer's sticker.
6.
Step 6
You'll see that the factory sticker lists the car's features and its fuel-efficiency rating (or the number of miles per gallon expected for city and highway driving). The MSRP on this sticker includes the sum of the vehicle's base price, any additional options and the destination fee. The MSRP has a built-in profit for the dealer, often around 10 percent.
7.
Step 7
Understand that the second sticker, if there is one, reflects a higher price. This price is set by the retailer for options and services it has supplied apart from the factory. Examples include an undercoating (to protect the car's underside exterior), dealer prep (washing, waxing and interior cleaning), interior and exterior treatment (sealant for the interior, no-wax finish for the exterior) and extra items (specialty wheels, for example). The second sticker price may also include additional dealer profits.
8.
Step 8
Tell the sales representative that you'd like to have a look inside the car, or just hop in if it's unlocked. Adjust the seat and mirrors, and check leg room in each part of the car.
9.
Step 9
Ask to take a test drive. Start out on city streets and then head out to the highway. Pay attention to steering ease, turning radius, braking response and acceleration. Adjust the mirrors and radio while you're driving to test convenience.
10.
Step 10
Return to the dealership and thank the dealer. If you like the car, ask for a business card and say you will return later.
11.
Step 11
Head to the next dealership and investigate other car models as described above. Ask dealers which car most closely resembles the one you previously test-drove, providing the make and model and explaining which features you liked. Test a number of models until you decide on a car, and compare these prices with those at other dealerships.
12.
Step 12
Inquire about availability and delivery time, especially if you're interested in a popular model or want special features.
13.
Step 13
Factor the dealership and its sales staff into your choice. A dealership you can trust, especially one with a competent service center on site, is worth more than money in your long future with the vehicle. You can, of course, have your car serviced at any dealer authorized by your new car's warranty.
14.
Step 14
Start negotiations on polite and friendly terms. Comment on what you like about the car and ask questions. The intent is to make the seller comfortable.
15.
Step 15
Remember that the dealer's second sticker lists options, not requirements, regardless of whether those services have already been provided. Ask for the factory wheels back, for example, or order a car that has no undercoating.
16.
Step 16
Make your first offer. It should be lower than what you're willing to pay, but not an insulting figure. Use the MSRP as a reference, remembering that dealer profit (often around 10 percent) is built into this figure.
17.
Step 17
Allow the seller to make a counteroffer. If the price is too high, say you're not able to afford that and ask him to talk to his manager.
18.
Step 18
If the salesperson balks at your first offer, make a slightly higher one. Continue negotiating until you can agree on a price within your budget. If you can't agree on a price, seek out another dealer. You may be able to go back and get the first dealer to underbid the second dealer.
Step 1
Decide how you intend to use the car: for daily commuting, recreation, weekends and evenings out, carrying things, towing a trailer, carrying more than one passenger or driving in the city, suburbs or country. Consider factors that are important to you, such as fuel efficiency, reliability and safety features.
2.
Step 2
Check into the resale value and repair history of past models in this car line, such as by consulting Consumer Reports magazine or its website (see Resources).
3.
Step 3
Come up with a realistic budget, based on what you can afford (consider the monthly payment and cost of upkeep). If you're considering a trade-in, check the Kelley Blue Book value of your current vehicle. The Blue Book is a catalog of new and used car values, available at libraries, banks and online (see Resources). Factor your car's trade-in value into your total budget.
4.
Step 4
Locate a town or an area near your home with several car dealerships; check Sunday newspaper advertisements and the yellow pages. Choose one or more dealerships to visit and set out early, preferably on a weekday. Remember to bring your driver's license so you can test drive.
5.
Step 5
Find a car that interests you and check the stickers on the window. The first (and sometimes only) one is the factory sticker, which lists the MSRP (Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price), and the second is the dealer's sticker.
6.
Step 6
You'll see that the factory sticker lists the car's features and its fuel-efficiency rating (or the number of miles per gallon expected for city and highway driving). The MSRP on this sticker includes the sum of the vehicle's base price, any additional options and the destination fee. The MSRP has a built-in profit for the dealer, often around 10 percent.
7.
Step 7
Understand that the second sticker, if there is one, reflects a higher price. This price is set by the retailer for options and services it has supplied apart from the factory. Examples include an undercoating (to protect the car's underside exterior), dealer prep (washing, waxing and interior cleaning), interior and exterior treatment (sealant for the interior, no-wax finish for the exterior) and extra items (specialty wheels, for example). The second sticker price may also include additional dealer profits.
8.
Step 8
Tell the sales representative that you'd like to have a look inside the car, or just hop in if it's unlocked. Adjust the seat and mirrors, and check leg room in each part of the car.
9.
Step 9
Ask to take a test drive. Start out on city streets and then head out to the highway. Pay attention to steering ease, turning radius, braking response and acceleration. Adjust the mirrors and radio while you're driving to test convenience.
10.
Step 10
Return to the dealership and thank the dealer. If you like the car, ask for a business card and say you will return later.
11.
Step 11
Head to the next dealership and investigate other car models as described above. Ask dealers which car most closely resembles the one you previously test-drove, providing the make and model and explaining which features you liked. Test a number of models until you decide on a car, and compare these prices with those at other dealerships.
12.
Step 12
Inquire about availability and delivery time, especially if you're interested in a popular model or want special features.
13.
Step 13
Factor the dealership and its sales staff into your choice. A dealership you can trust, especially one with a competent service center on site, is worth more than money in your long future with the vehicle. You can, of course, have your car serviced at any dealer authorized by your new car's warranty.
14.
Step 14
Start negotiations on polite and friendly terms. Comment on what you like about the car and ask questions. The intent is to make the seller comfortable.
15.
Step 15
Remember that the dealer's second sticker lists options, not requirements, regardless of whether those services have already been provided. Ask for the factory wheels back, for example, or order a car that has no undercoating.
16.
Step 16
Make your first offer. It should be lower than what you're willing to pay, but not an insulting figure. Use the MSRP as a reference, remembering that dealer profit (often around 10 percent) is built into this figure.
17.
Step 17
Allow the seller to make a counteroffer. If the price is too high, say you're not able to afford that and ask him to talk to his manager.
18.
Step 18
If the salesperson balks at your first offer, make a slightly higher one. Continue negotiating until you can agree on a price within your budget. If you can't agree on a price, seek out another dealer. You may be able to go back and get the first dealer to underbid the second dealer.
Keep your old clunker or buy a new car 2010
Let's divide the car-buying universe into two camps: those who keep a car until it drops, and those who think a new car will change their lives.
To the first, a round of applause. There's nothing short of the bus that's cheaper than keeping a car until it crumbles into a pile of rust. Almost any car can be nursed to 200,000 miles without endangering your life, and even a new engine is cheaper than all but the cheapest used cars.
To the second, another round of applause, because the millions of new cars they buy every year instantly become used cars soon available at a considerable discount to those in Camp 1. And a moment of silence, because a new car will change their lives in ways they never foresaw on the dealer's lot.
If you're in a drive-until-the-muffler-is-dragging wannabe, read on. We'll look at ways to keep your car on the road longer and realistically weigh the costs of upgrading.
I'd love to keep my old car, but …
* It no longer fits my life. You may have taken up gardening in a big way but still own a Corvette. You may feel nervous about taking your '78 Ford on a trip to Colorado. Your little Accord may be a tight squeeze when family comes to town. The answer to all: Rent. Why buy a gas-sucking pickup because you visit Home Depot twice a year or a $40,000 sport-utility because you take the kids skiing for a week at Easter? Even at $180 a weekend, renting is far cheaper than a car payment. Plus you get to drive the very latest without worrying about insurance, license tags, maintenance or depreciation. Or try swapping cars with a friend, returning it gassed-up and clean (with the oil changed, too, if the loan was more than a day or two. You want to be able to ask again next year.).
* Those repair bills are really adding up. Then do the math. Does the cost of repairs exceed the cost of a new car? A typical new car is around $28,000; that's about $475 a month for five years after 20% down. A rebuilt transmission might run $1,800, a huge outlay in one chunk, but far less than the $5,700 a year you'd spend on new-car payments alone. If you can't afford repairs twice a year, it's unlikely you can afford a new car payment every month. In any case, anybody with a car older than three years should be tucking aside $50 a month for repairs and maintenance. If the gods smile, you'll never use most of it and you'll have a tidy sum to blow on your next car.
More from MSN Autos and MSN Money
Save on car insurance (c) Corbis
* MSN Autos: What's a certified pre-owned car?
* MSN Autos: Kelley Blue Book trade-in values
* MSN Autos: Reliability ratings for used cars
* MSN Money: Insure Your Car Decision Center
* MSN Money: Which car costs less to insure?
* I'm nervous driving an older car. Maybe little things are beginning to go: a new thermostat one month, a starter the next. You might simply spend $56 on a AAA Basic membership and carry a cell phone, reminding yourself that even new cars aren't immune to mechanical failure. The upside of frequent breakdowns is that you'll get to know mechanics quite well. Find one you like. Flatter him. Pay your bills on time. And the next time he fixes your car, ask him to take a few minutes to see what else will need repair soon.
* The repair costs more than the car is worth. A $1,500 engine rebuild that keeps your '83 Toyota on the road still makes good financial sense. It's at this point, however, that all but the flintiest drivers begin to think about upgrading.
Which brings us to our next question:
Am I ready for a newer car?
Your first step is to do nothing except write a check to yourself in the amount you're thinking you can afford every month. Put aside a car payment every month for three months (long enough for at least one of life's little emergencies to crop up).
To pass the time, make three phone calls: one to your bank, to find out what kind of rates they charge on loans to people with your credit history; one to your insurer, to ask the rates for comprehensive insurance on a model you think you'd like to buy; and one to your local DMV, to see what registration and licensing would cost.
At the end of three months, ask yourself these questions:
* How much did it hurt? If you skimped at all on other bills or shorted the amount of the payment, you're not ready.
* Would I have enough left over to pay for insurance and licensing fees each year?
* Would I pay this much every month for the car that's in my driveway already? Sooner or later, every new car becomes an old car, and you'll feel about the next car just the way you do about your old clunker.
* Would I rather have the cash? Our typical car payment, $475, adds up to more than $1,400 in just three short months. Perhaps you'd prefer to get a tan in Mexico and limp along with ol' Betsy another year.
* Could I continue to save for another year and simply pay cash? Six grand would buy any of hundreds of reliable used models. Save for two years and you're approaching new-car territory, if your old car will fetch a few thousand.
If the craving for a shinier car hasn't passed in three months, at least you begin the shopping process with a few months' worth of car payments and a more realistic idea of the hit your wallet will take.
Side note: Never skimp on maintenance
Pay special attention to the things that will cost you a fortune if they break. That means making regular oil changes, tire rotations and transmission tune-ups, even if the car is running fine. Timing belts, for example, are spendy at $600 or more, and replacing one for no other reason than that the odometer has turned 90,000 miles might seem wasteful. But let one break and you'll find that repairing bent valves could cost you three times that. Replacing torn CV boots, those plastic housings that keep grime and grit out of the car's constant-velocity joints, costs about a third as much as a CV joint repair. (If your owner's manual is long gone, MSN Autos has a free online service, My Car, that tracks your car's service schedule.)
To the first, a round of applause. There's nothing short of the bus that's cheaper than keeping a car until it crumbles into a pile of rust. Almost any car can be nursed to 200,000 miles without endangering your life, and even a new engine is cheaper than all but the cheapest used cars.
To the second, another round of applause, because the millions of new cars they buy every year instantly become used cars soon available at a considerable discount to those in Camp 1. And a moment of silence, because a new car will change their lives in ways they never foresaw on the dealer's lot.
If you're in a drive-until-the-muffler-is-dragging wannabe, read on. We'll look at ways to keep your car on the road longer and realistically weigh the costs of upgrading.
I'd love to keep my old car, but …
* It no longer fits my life. You may have taken up gardening in a big way but still own a Corvette. You may feel nervous about taking your '78 Ford on a trip to Colorado. Your little Accord may be a tight squeeze when family comes to town. The answer to all: Rent. Why buy a gas-sucking pickup because you visit Home Depot twice a year or a $40,000 sport-utility because you take the kids skiing for a week at Easter? Even at $180 a weekend, renting is far cheaper than a car payment. Plus you get to drive the very latest without worrying about insurance, license tags, maintenance or depreciation. Or try swapping cars with a friend, returning it gassed-up and clean (with the oil changed, too, if the loan was more than a day or two. You want to be able to ask again next year.).
* Those repair bills are really adding up. Then do the math. Does the cost of repairs exceed the cost of a new car? A typical new car is around $28,000; that's about $475 a month for five years after 20% down. A rebuilt transmission might run $1,800, a huge outlay in one chunk, but far less than the $5,700 a year you'd spend on new-car payments alone. If you can't afford repairs twice a year, it's unlikely you can afford a new car payment every month. In any case, anybody with a car older than three years should be tucking aside $50 a month for repairs and maintenance. If the gods smile, you'll never use most of it and you'll have a tidy sum to blow on your next car.
More from MSN Autos and MSN Money
Save on car insurance (c) Corbis
* MSN Autos: What's a certified pre-owned car?
* MSN Autos: Kelley Blue Book trade-in values
* MSN Autos: Reliability ratings for used cars
* MSN Money: Insure Your Car Decision Center
* MSN Money: Which car costs less to insure?
* I'm nervous driving an older car. Maybe little things are beginning to go: a new thermostat one month, a starter the next. You might simply spend $56 on a AAA Basic membership and carry a cell phone, reminding yourself that even new cars aren't immune to mechanical failure. The upside of frequent breakdowns is that you'll get to know mechanics quite well. Find one you like. Flatter him. Pay your bills on time. And the next time he fixes your car, ask him to take a few minutes to see what else will need repair soon.
* The repair costs more than the car is worth. A $1,500 engine rebuild that keeps your '83 Toyota on the road still makes good financial sense. It's at this point, however, that all but the flintiest drivers begin to think about upgrading.
Which brings us to our next question:
Am I ready for a newer car?
Your first step is to do nothing except write a check to yourself in the amount you're thinking you can afford every month. Put aside a car payment every month for three months (long enough for at least one of life's little emergencies to crop up).
To pass the time, make three phone calls: one to your bank, to find out what kind of rates they charge on loans to people with your credit history; one to your insurer, to ask the rates for comprehensive insurance on a model you think you'd like to buy; and one to your local DMV, to see what registration and licensing would cost.
At the end of three months, ask yourself these questions:
* How much did it hurt? If you skimped at all on other bills or shorted the amount of the payment, you're not ready.
* Would I have enough left over to pay for insurance and licensing fees each year?
* Would I pay this much every month for the car that's in my driveway already? Sooner or later, every new car becomes an old car, and you'll feel about the next car just the way you do about your old clunker.
* Would I rather have the cash? Our typical car payment, $475, adds up to more than $1,400 in just three short months. Perhaps you'd prefer to get a tan in Mexico and limp along with ol' Betsy another year.
* Could I continue to save for another year and simply pay cash? Six grand would buy any of hundreds of reliable used models. Save for two years and you're approaching new-car territory, if your old car will fetch a few thousand.
If the craving for a shinier car hasn't passed in three months, at least you begin the shopping process with a few months' worth of car payments and a more realistic idea of the hit your wallet will take.
Side note: Never skimp on maintenance
Pay special attention to the things that will cost you a fortune if they break. That means making regular oil changes, tire rotations and transmission tune-ups, even if the car is running fine. Timing belts, for example, are spendy at $600 or more, and replacing one for no other reason than that the odometer has turned 90,000 miles might seem wasteful. But let one break and you'll find that repairing bent valves could cost you three times that. Replacing torn CV boots, those plastic housings that keep grime and grit out of the car's constant-velocity joints, costs about a third as much as a CV joint repair. (If your owner's manual is long gone, MSN Autos has a free online service, My Car, that tracks your car's service schedule.)
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